Fair Trade

Fashion with Heart: Q&A with Fair Trade Fashion Designer, Liz Alig

Liz Alig, with some of the women she employs
I am so excited to be able to catch up with Liz and her fair trade fashion line Liz Alig!

We carry her line at Change Boutique, and love her brand! Everything is so unique and carefully crafted using recycled materials or hand woven materials. Read more from our interview:

How did you start Liz Alig? Was it a work trip or vacationing in other countries and seeing the way the locals lived?

Liz Alig: I started Liz Alig just as a very small collection of dresses I made one Summer – to see if it was possible to make a whole collection out of recycled materials.  Then after a local store sold out of them and wanted more – I approached a small not for profit in Honduras I had interned for about producing 100 dresses for me.  Slowly, it has grown from there.

Do you have a background in Fashion Design or Social work?

Liz Alig: I have a background in fashion design.

What was the hardest part of starting Liz Alig? (ex. sourcing vendors who could supply recycled fabric? Securing labor? Importing?)

Liz Alig: I have a background in design and have had to learn everything about owning a business along the way – so that has been a lot of fun and a huge challenge.  I would say that the hardest challenge though about this is being in the middle between fair trade groups and high end boutiques.  These are two completely different worlds and I find myself in the middle a lot!  Things like quality control – the small little group who has never left their village that has no electricity or running water does not understand the kind of quality expected by a high end store in the States.  Also, the stores appreciate the story of the clothing, but it can be difficult if they don’t understand the difference between handmade and factory made clothing.  It can be difficult to help these groups to meet in the middle and understand the challenges of both.  It is a huge learning curb for both ends and it is sometimes overwhelming to be in the middle.

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What are your design inspirations?

Liz Alig: I find design inspiration everywhere.  I am currently in Northern Michigan and am getting a lot of inspiration for next Fall – I also get inspiration from traveling in colorful countries like India and Africa.

How do you find ethical and fair trade producers for your line?

Liz Alig: It is a pretty small network of ethical producers of clothing, so after being in it for a few years – I have heard of a lot of different groups.  I try to focus on groups that are not only producing ethical clothing, but are also using that to make a difference in their community and in the lives of their employees.  A lot of the organizations we work with use the profits to give technical training to women who otherwise do not have a lot of help finding a job outside of their homes.

Liz Alig has chosen to follow a few standards as outlined by global fair trade organizations.

How do you ensure that the production is ethical and fairly made?

Liz Alig: Most of the places I work with – I have a friend who either started it or works closely with them – so before we even think about a new partner we have a pretty good relationship with them.  Then, it is super helpful to visit them before we start the production to not only see how they are producing stuff, but to see what fabrics and equipment they have to work with.  One reason we use a lot of recycled and hand-woven fabric in the first place is to ensure the ethics of the clothing.  Each country has textiles, or recycled materials, that we know we can source from that country in an ethical way.

How big is your team/company at Liz Alig?

Liz Alig: Liz Alig is still pretty small – we have about 10 brand reps all over the country.  Myself and a part time wholesale manager.  I also have a whole lot of really great volunteers.

Any suggestions/advice for young designers who want to do their own fair trade fashion line?

Liz Alig:  Honestly, it is really hard!  As I said before you are kind of in the middle between two groups who don’t really understand each other.  I would say it is important to understand it takes time – my rule is it will take about five years for a group to be at a place to produce large orders at a good quality.

What are some fair trade ethical brands that you love that we should also check out?

Liz Alig: I really love Ace and Jig

Love her line?

You can order direct from her website or stop in at Change Boutique <3

 

What is Fair Trade?

Thousands of workers and their unions rallied across Bangladesh April 24, the one-year anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse that killed more than 1,100 garment workers. The Solidarity Center is training garment worker organizers--many of them women--and supporting their efforts to demand safe factories. Credit: Solidarity Center/Sifat Sharmin Amita

Thousands of workers and their unions rallied across Bangladesh April 24, the one-year anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse that killed more than 1,100 garment workers. The Solidarity Center is training garment worker organizers–many of them women–and supporting their efforts to demand safe factories. Credit: Solidarity Center/Sifat Sharmin Amita, CC BY-ND 2.0

Fair Trade Focuses on the Well-Being of People and the Environment

The purpose of any business is to make money. Yes, and especially when that business is a large multi-national corporation legally obligated to make as much money as possible for their shareholders. However, all too often it comes to the detriment of workers and the environment.

The fair trade movement is a reaction to this assault on people and the environment. The goal of this movement is to create a business model where the focus is shifted away from gaining profits for the wealthy few. Instead, the fair trade movement focuses on the well-being of both people who are actually doing the work and the ecosystems that make this planet the only one we know of with life on it.

The Fair Trade Federation, an organization dedicated to promoting the global fair trade movement while building equitable and sustainable trading partnerships and creating opportunities to alleviate poverty, explains further:

Fair trade is an approach to business and to development based on dialogue, transparency, and respect that seeks to create greater equity in the international trading system.

Fair trade supports farmers and craftspeople in developing countries who are socially and economically marginalized. These producers lack economic opportunity and often face steep hurdles in finding markets and customers for their goods.

Fair trade is about making a tremendous impact on artisan and farmer communities while offering great products to the public. Communities are improved; nutritional needs met; health care costs are covered; the poor, especially women, are empowered; the environmental impact of production, sourcing, and transport is mitigated to the fullest extent possible. Such an impact is created because Fair Trade approaches development as a holistic process.

Garment Factories and the Cost of Big Fashion

To understand the goals and the value of fair trade it is important to understand the way big fashion works. As most fashion companies move their production overseas, they are inherently capitalizing and exploiting the built in currency strength of the US dollar in foreign countries. This undermines the major strides unions made in the early to mid 1900’s that built the American middle class. That’s not to say all companies that produce overseas are treating the workers badly or exploiting them. Even in the case of the companies that are exploiting their workers, the jobs they are providing may be better than the alternatives for some. But those workers now find themselves in a situation that American workers in the early 1900’s were in, while the jobs that helped so many Americans climb into the middle class are disappearing.

ILO in Asia and the Pacific., Child labourers work at the small garment factory in Jakarta with tasks, such as sewing, packaging, etc. Photographer: Asrian Mirza.   Go to: creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/igo/deed.en_US

ILO in Asia and the Pacific., Child laborers work at the small garment factory in Jakarta with tasks, such as sewing, packaging, etc. Credit: Asrian Mirza, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Quality of the goods factors in as well because of the fierce competition within the fashion industry. But because of this the quality of the environment is left behind and the lives of the people involved are often conveniently overlooked in the name of profit. Major US apparel corporations generally have an extended network of overseas manufacturers that they have worked with before or are connected to through other corporations. These factories are specialized for particular types of production (e.g. cut and sew knits, leather, denim).

A veteran Production Head, will have a sense of how many styles they are producing for the season. They determine what the cost is to get it produced and will then negotiate on how low the manufacturer can go to meet their needs. Many times when this is done with overseas manufacturers, their desire to keep clients happy and place huge orders means that the factory reps will start seeking other local laborers who can help them meet these orders.

For additional information on the subject, the Human Rights Watch has discussed labor rights abuses in Cambodia’s Garment Industry in their report “Work Fast or Get Out”.

The Detriments of Overseas Manufacturing

This is where the breakdown in the supply chain happens. USA apparel companies “trust” that their overseas manufacturer sources local labor to help meet their demands. It easy for situations like this to turn corrupt, because the Factory Owners & Merchandiser knows the local laws, and does whatever they need to do to make the order happen. They are not obligated to operate by the same ethical or fair trade standard that a “USA” apparel company does.

Another common practice for overseas manufacturers, who work strictly with a brand or label is to have your “show” factory or headquarters. When outside NGO’s or quality control auditors make “surprise” inspections factory seems compliant. The overseas manufacturers may hide the extensive network of sub-contracted satellite sewing operations that are not directly associated to USA apparel brand and probably don’t meet the U.S. Apparel companies ethical or labor standards.

Since these satellite operations are only managed by the local manufacturers contact point, it is not surprising that horrific incidents such as the Rana Plaza factory building collapse could happen. Western brands that were getting made in this factory did not comment or reply, because they honestly might not have known the level to which their 1000+ units of orders were getting subcontracted out to. Transparency is hard to trace in the multi-national corporate machine of big fashion and that’s why the transparency promoted by the fair trade movement and the production of traceable small units made locally or by third party certified global organizations or NGO’s is so crucial in protecting the workers.

Meanwhile while public pressure may have some impact it is easy for large companies to slip back into their “profit before all else” ways. Companies may make changes while the pressure is on and then once people have forgotten about the issue, somehow find themselves doing exactly what they had committed not to do.

Back in 2002, H&M for example, promised to ban PVC from all their products, a commendable commitment in response to campaigns on what was back then a hot topic. Fast forward to 2011 and with other environmental issues making headlines H&M have inexplicably backtracked and are using PVC once again.

Garment Workers in Deathtrap_ Taslima Akhter_ Nobody knows who are they, what is the relation between them but the crude reality make them closer and may be they are trying to save each other and the last moment of their life from the death trap of Savar Rana Plaza_. Embrace in Death. Near about 438 workers died as building Collapse at Savar Rana Plaza. Most of them are women. Savar Dhaka, Bangladesh, 24th April 2013

Garment Workers in Deathtrap_ Taslima Akhter_ Nobody knows who are they, what is the relation between them but the crude reality make them closer and may be they are trying to save each other and the last moment of their life from the death trap of Savar Rana Plaza_. Embrace in Death. Near about 438 workers died as building Collapse at Savar Rana Plaza. Most of them are women. Savar Dhaka, Bangladesh, 24th April 2013. Credit: Times Asi, CC BY 2.0

What Do We Do?

We can turn a blind eye and say “it’s just the way it is”.

Or we can raise a ruckus with the media and our representatives in government.   Because of the the over 1 million consumers world wide that have raised their voices and pressured the major fashion brands that were manufactured in the horrific Rana Plaza collapse, we have a great victory today.   But, we can’t stop now.

We must support alternatives business models that are making real impacts on the lives of the workers producing the goods and the environment that is sustaining us all.

Fair trade is making those differences and the more people who become aware and support fair trade with their purchasing choices, the bigger of an impact it will have on workers, the environment, and the businesses currently operating under the classic exploitative model.

Adventures in Fair Trade Fashion

View from the top! Broadway and Herald Square, June 2012

A view from the top! From my last job, building located on Broadway and overlooking Herald Square, June 2012

After 12 years of apparel industry experience in NY and Philadelphia working for a number of brands from Levis & Dockers to Donna Karan,  fashion has been quite the eye opening experience for me.  Gone is naive idealism of a fashion student erased by the real-life, cut-throat world of the industry.  One of the things that began to bother me about the industry was the rampant inequity of the system.  Although the fair trade movement has been going on since the 1960’s, as far as ethical fashion it has been developing slowly through the past 20 years. I really became more interested in fair trade fashion around 2007 when I was working for Levis Dockers.  I had read about how some of their overseas manufacturers were scrutinized for their labor practices. That’s when I started obsessively researching fair trade fashion brands and what they do, and how they were different.

Lucky Breaks

There were 2 very fortunate incidents that occurred around this time, that helped to solidify this new path in conscious fashion, working at Donna Karan’s private line for the Urban Zen foundation and also volunteering with Sewing Hope, a project of the non-profit Fount of Mercy.

Photo courtesy of Sewing Hope

Photo courtesy of Sewing Hope

The Sewing Hope project was the Sewing and Tailoring training programs of Fount of Mercy that worked with local East African organizations, building their capacity to provide educational and vocational opportunities for their communities’ vulnerable.  One of the the keys to helping countries industrialize begins with the women and the grass roots cottage industry of the garment trade. Teaching women how to sew, so they are able to start their own businesses and earn money to support their children and create clothing for every member of their family.

Left to right: Designer Celestino, Model Jaslene G, Designer Rachel Gregory, Model Kim Tank, Designer Andrey Oshlykov.  Photos by Theodore Samuel

Left to right; Designer: Celestino, Model Jaslene Gonzalez, Designer: Rachel Gregory, Model Kim Tank, Designer: Emmet McCarthy, Model: Irina Roma. Photos by Theodore Samuel

I volunteered to be there event coordinator for their annual fashion show fundraisers, with all the proceeds of the event going directly back to the Sewing and Tailoring program in Uganda.  Everyone involved with the event were all volunteers; designers, models, hair and make-up, DJ’s , sound, lighting and photographers.  In the three years of helping to produce their annual shows, we were able to raise over $22,000.

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Donna’s mission at Urban Zen was to create a “Soulful Economy, which means conscious consumerism, social responsibility and giving back. The Urban Zen Foundation creates, connects and collaborates to raise awareness and inspire change in the areas of well-being, preserving cultures and empowering children in mind, body and spirit. ”  I was at a place where all the hard work and long hours meant something more then just a paycheck,  and I worked alongside a fantastically driven team and an icon.

Be the Change

Two years ago I moved to Madison, WI with my husband and was thrilled to pick up a part-time position at a fantastic fair trade fashion boutique on Willy St. When I started working with Nikki at Change Boutique, I was super excited to finally have found a perfect alignment for my fashion background and my philanthropic desires.  In the past year we have been working on developing our own pieces and I have had my first taste of researching and developing products in a fair trade capacity.

I have learned a lot about ethical sourcing and manufacturing through this process and am continuing to learn more about it.  Since I’ve started working directly with fair trade, friends of mine in the NYC industry were quick to ask specifics about what fair trade really means.  It turns out that although there is very clear idealism behind the concept, clearly defining it is not as simple.  In posts in the following months,  I will share what I have learned and my ongoing exploits in producing fair trade & sustainable fashion locally and worldwide.